Posted by Stefan Austermühle 30 September 2010
I must admit, that when my wife Nina sent me her first email 15 years ago (in the pre-Google Earth age) asking for advice on her campaign in Peru against the killing of 15,000 dolphins a year for human consumption, I had to look on the map to realize that Peru actually has 3,500 km of coastline. Peru is globally known for its record-breaking rainforest biodiversity: more than 1800 bird species (10% of the world’s), more than 10% of the worlds mammal species, more than 4,500 butterfly species (20% of the worlds total), 35,000 vascular plant species and so on. However, little is known about the ocean off Peru.
After reaching Nina’s goal to legally prohibit the killing of dolphins, we founded the Peruvian conservation group Mundo Azul (Blue World) in 1999, and in 2001 started battling the ongoing illegal dolphin slaughter 
costing the lives of about 3,000 dolphins a year until now. But when journalists asked me how many dolphins were left I could only wonder - so we set out to find an answer. In 2006 we started Peru’s first ever large scale and continuous photo-identification effort, being financed to date in great part by regular volunteer based marine surveys.
Given the fact that Peru has one of the world’s biggest fisheries - extracting 10% of the global fish catch each year - it should not come as a surprise that humans were not the first to know that there is a lot of fish around. For millions of years more than 26 albatross and petrel species have chosen New Zealand, Africa and the Galapagos Islands as their favorite breeding grounds, but they actually spent the far bigger part of their lives feeding in the world’s most productive ocean off Peru. Marine turtles too feed and live here, showing up on their breeding beaches in Central America just long enough to leave their eggs, before travelling back to their feeding grounds off Peru.
So it’s no wonder that in Peruvian waters more than 30 species of whales and dolphins can be found - around 37% of all cetacean species on our planet: Bottlenose Dolphins, Dusky Dolphins and two species of Common Dolphins, transient Orcas, Sperm Whales, Bryde’s Whales, Fin Whales and Sei Whales are around all year-long for example. Others like Blue Whales and Humpbacks migrate along the coast twice a year, plus in the northern rainforest we have the Amazon River Dolphins and the Tucuxi.
Now in our fourth year of Bottlenose Dolphin research, we have identified more than 1,500 different animals in just 200 km of coastline between Lima and Paracas, more than 600 of them being residents of the area. That is an average of 7 dolphins per kilometer, or 3 resident dolphins per kilometre of coastline - surely one of the highest Bottlenose Dolphin densities worldwide? We have never even tried to count the Dusky Dolphins – there are just too many around.
I believe that the enormous number of cetacean species present in high densities year-round, plus the fact that along the Peruvian desert coast we don’t know rain or storms, makes our coast one of the best potential whale and dolphin watching destinations to be developed in the world – plus there are sea lions, penguins and lots of other marine birds as additional guaranteed species on any given trip.
The question of why all of this has not been known before can be explained with a combination of answers: 
Firstly, marine research in Peru traditionally focuses exclusively on anchovies, which make up nearly all of the fish catch. Expensive biological research on cetaceans has never been carried out and our Non-governmental Organisation Mundo Azul is the only NGO in Peru with a small fleet of boats, capable of carrying out marine surveys. Secondly, it appears that Peruvians suffer a deep rooted fear of the ocean, and even though there are never storms, the sea is considered dangerous. Plus the dark-green waters of the cold Humboldt Current harbor beautiful kelp forests but no coral reefs, so recreational divers only recently start discovering Peru.
As little has been published about the amazing diversity of more than 1,000 ocean fish species or more than 600 crustacean species, Peruvians consider the ocean boring. This lack of knowledge becomes obvious when in conversation with local people. They are surprised that the animals known locally as ‘bufeos’ which can be seen passing by the beaches on a daily basis, are actually dolphins, in fact they would be better known to them as ‘Flipper’ from TV fame. Aquatic and marine sports have always been 
weekend activities for just a very small number of wealthy Peruvians, so that there is not a boating, yachting or sailing culture. Tourism-wise the country concentrates on promoting archeological sites like Machu Pichu and the rainforest.
Additionally the rugged Peruvian desert coast has little in the way of harbor infrastructure either, and is in many parts still inaccessible. When we navigate even near the capital Lima we are often the only boat out there for the entire day. All this has led to the ocean being, for most people, for tourism and waters sports only: a blank spot on the map: uncharted; unknown; and ignored.
However whale and dolphin watching, as well as other marine ecotourism activities, hold the potential solution for threatened marine biodiversity. By involving local communities in tourism activities, and giving value to cetaceans and other marine species, it will slowly make more sense to local fishermen to earn money with living animals instead of illegally killing them and running the risk of getting jailed for ecological crimes. Training fishermen to become tourist guides therefore was the next logical step for Mundo Azul to take. Additionally we are promoting Codes of Conduct with existing marine tourism operators to avoid tourism itself becoming another threat to whales and dolphins. There is a lot of work to be done yet. Come and support us by being a Mundo Azul conservation volunteer in Peru - and see for yourself why we believe that Peru is the best potential whale and dolphin watching destination on Earth.
About the author
Stefan Austermühle, along with Nina Pardo, Sergio Bambaren, Alfredo Ferreyros Gildemeister, Lucho Raffo and Olga Rey founded Mundo Azul in 1999 with the aim of protecting the marine and aquatic biodiversity of Peru.
In the first years Mundo Azul initiated pioneering diving expeditions in Lake Titicaca, Laguna de los Condores and Yanachaga Chemillen National Park, as well as biodiversity and ecological research along the coast - including undercover research investigating the illegal killing of dolphins for human consumption. In 2003 and 2004 they received the “Cambie” award from the University of the South Pacific for their conservation efforts, and in 2006 Mundo Azul initiated Peru's first large-scale photo-identification research program on Bottlenose Dolphins and hopes to extend this research effort to other species in the future. The remit now is to broaden it’s former vision to encompass environmental problems throughout Peru.
I have been described as possessing ‘remarkable’ patience and perseverance. That is maybe a polite way of putting it; someone else was more frank when they called me a Cybernag. 
truly beautiful would be lacking from planet Earth if our oceans were not moved by the songs of whales and the dancing of dolphins. How sad it would be if our grandchildren were learning about whales as they do a dinosaur with the word ‘extinct’ attached to its description. As any of us know who have seen one of these animals in the wild, they can move people to tears, they can inspire people to change the course their lives, they have even on occasion saved lives. 
These amazing figures, leading to the numerous entries for this species in the Guinness Book of Records, suggest that we know everything there is to know about Blue Whales. Yet the fact that they have been weighed, measured and examined ad-infinitum reveals a very one-dimensional and rather sinister side to our understanding of these gentle giants. That’s because most of this information comes from records kept by the world’s whaling fleets as they hunted down an estimated 350,000 Blue Whales for oil and meat in the 20th Century. By the time a ban came in to force in the 1960’s, the species was teetering on the brink of extinction. 
My personal experiences of working in an area where research into wild Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphins has been self-funded comes from Ponta do Ouro in Mozambique. Dolphin Encountours initiated Africa's first dolphin interaction and research facility in the mid 90’s here. Over the years some 4000 encounters have been logged and an impressive 200 individuals catalogued. The facility soon saw the development of the non-profit organisation DolphinCare-Africa, whose aim is to protect both resident and migratory species in the area. 